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What period of clothing is the underskirt

The underskirt is a kind of Hanfu. The short dress worn on the upper body and the skirt tied on the lower body are collectively called underskirt, which is a typical “upper under the skirt” garment system. A short jacket or shirt is called a “neck”, usually no more than a knee, and a tight-fitting long skirt, with a silk drape and half of the arm. The underskirt appeared in the Warring States Period and emerged in the Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties.

Under skirts are divided into waist under skirts, high waist under skirts, and full chest under skirts based on the height of the skirt waist. According to the style of the collar, the underskirts are divided into cross-collar underskirts and straight-collar underskirts. According to the difference between whether it is inside or not, undergarments are divided into single undergarments and double undergarments. Single undergarments are similar to shirts and double undergarments are similar to jackets. The difference lies in whether there is a waist undergarment. The underskirt was worn by ordinary people (women) until the early Tang Dynasty, and was gradually replaced by jackets. Men’s underskirts are mostly called clothes (cháng).

Brief introduction

The underskirt is one of the earliest and most basic clothing forms in the history of Han costumes. It is generally believed that the underskirt appeared in the Warring States Period. Because of the popularity of deep clothing in the Han Dynasty, undergarments gradually decreased. The skirt styles of this period are generally very short on the waist, but the skirt is very long and hangs down to the ground.

In 1957, the actual undergarment was found in the tomb of Mozuzi Han in Wuwei, Gansu Province. The undergarment was made of light blue silk, and the sleeve was covered with a piece of white silk. The skirt also contains silk and cotton, and the material is made of yellow silk. The underskirts of this period are usually topped with narrow sleeves and right gussets, with a rectangular cross-collar; the lower skirts are combined with four plain silk, narrow upper and wider lower, pleated at the waist, and silk belt on the waist of the skirt.

Form

Underwear can be divided into single underlay and double underlay. The difference lies in whether it is inside or not. The sleeves of undergarments are generally longer. The neckline style of the right gusset is the standard style of Hanfu, and the appearance is like the letter y. (Zuo Gu is in the style of a foreign race or a dead person, and the direction cannot be reversed). The waistband is made of silk or leather for fixing.

The palace string is woven with ribbons, usually tied with a few loops in the middle, and then hangs down to the ground, and some also string a piece of jade pendant in the middle to press the skirt so that it will not spread out and affect its appearance. (Not required)

The skirts range from six to twelve, with various colors and various styles. Compared with other clothing styles, undergarments have an obvious feature: short tops, long bottom skirts, the top and bottom ratios reflect the requirements of the golden section, and have rich aesthetic connotations.

They have a common feature: flat cutting, multiple edges, and ribbon tie; the upper skirt changes mainly in the collar and placket, and the lower skirt is as long as the upper.

When the dress is short, the length of the skirt is as short as the waist and the skirt is as long as the ankle bone; the length of the skirt is the width of the skirt. When the length is long, the length is from the hip to the knee, and the skirt is only a few inches away, so the skirt does not have to be distinctive. Underwear skirts are taboo to be evenly divided up and down, which will appear dull and less changeable.

Specific classification

According to different collar styles, it can be divided into cross-collar skirt and straight-collar skirt.

According to the difference of whether it is inside or not, the undergarments are divided into single undergarments and double undergarments. Single undergarments are similar to shirts, and double undergarments are similar to jackets.

According to the height of the skirt waist, it can be divided into mid-waist skirt (same as waist skirt), high-waist skirt and chest skirt.

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